Not that it matters because you are putting RTV on it, BUT STILL IT MATTERS. You WILL shave off the aluminum if you aren’t careful. Take your time, be patient, play some jazz music. **WARNING** do not go aggressive with the RAZOR BLADE. Anyways just don’t do it the way they showed in the video.Īfter you have the cover removed, use a RAZOR BLADE to get the bigger chunks of RTV off. You will need to apply even pressure when applying the cover, ensure no oil is leaking on your new RTV bead, etc. Not only that, even though you have drained the oil, there will still be oil leaking from the passages. There is a bunch of rtv around the waterpump, and a bunch down below and all around the inside of the timing cover. There is absolutely no way that the creator was able to effectively clean off ALL of the RTV applied by the factory. This is where I talk about the youtube video.
#2012 timing cover leak manual
If forgotten, refer to TECH MANUAL for locations Match them up with the appropriate size from the gasket kit. Also be mindful of the O-RINGS and where they go. That way, I would not lose any of them.Īfter prying off the timing cover, I noticed that from the factory, there is a generous amount of RTV all around. When removing the bolts, I went Clockwise, and used a cardboard box to place each bolt in while removing them. Not doing so will damage your short block, cause possible cracks, etc. Reference the TECH MANUAL for locations of all 32 bolts. **WARNING** Ensure you have removed ALL bolts of the timing cover BEFORE prying on the cover. Don’t forget to drain the oil while it's out. I am glad i had ordered the GASKET KIT earlier because a lot of the parts came in handy. For me I found that I needed to replace my valve cover gaskets, crank seals (front & rear) and my dipstick o-ring. Now that the engine is out, look it over. Heads up, to recharge your a/c will cost anywhere between $70-$120. This is an option for individuals who do not feel comfortable removing an engine or cannot.
#2 is removing the front bumper, radiator, a/c condenser, and front part of the chassis frame. You can move the A/C off to the side while removing the engine. This method you would only need to drain your radiator. Remove the engine completely from the BRZ and work on the engine on an engine stand. There are 2 methods that you can approach this to do it the proper way. In my opinion, that is not the proper fix but rather a temporary and almost dangerous fix for the engine, I will explain why shortly. **WARNING** There is a video on youtube where an owner fixes his timing cover with his father while the engine is still in the car. Oil (since you are draining your oil, have a filter ready too) Often referred to as Grey RTV)Ĭan of brake cleaner ( I ended up using 4 or more) THREEBOND TB1217H silicone gasket maker (or equivalent. > Can be leaking from the oil dipstick area and/or the 4 bolts spanning the middle of the cover as well. The same as when gaskets become brittle from the thermodynamics of everything and need to be replaced, or hoses turn hard and crack. But really, its because over time with the heating and cooling of the engine, it just becomes weak and leaks oil. Most of the time on the passenger side, but happens on both sides.The reason why it leaks is because it does and that is why it leaks. > Often found on the underside of the engine near the timing cover.
#2012 timing cover leak full
I will type the material I used in full caps when applicable for easy reference for the reader. And before I go any further, it has been now 2k miles since I have fixed this, and everything seems to be great.
This is not a complete step by step (because I didn’t document the whole thing), it's more of things to know while doing the job and a basic walkthrough. Hopefully this will help someone who is considering doing their timing cover. So I wanted to talk about how I did my timing cover and what obstacles I was confronted with. **Note: I am not responsible for any problems you may cause to your car.**
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